“J’vais faire les courses (I’m going grocery shopping),” I called, bundled in my heavy coat, hat and gloves, ready to head out in a minute.
“Did you warm up the car?” P. shouted from upstairs.
Merde. I hadn’t.
If I didn’t warm the car on a cold day, P. would give me a hard time, so I did it without arguing. Winter shows no sign of leaving just yet, although today felt milder. We’d enjoyed two snowy days last week—perfect for snowshoeing, building a snowman, curling up on the couch and sharing a cozy dinner with friends R. and J. R. brought a pumpkin flan for dessert, and I made a gorgonzola, pear and walnut risotto with an arugula side salad. I know summer and its humidity will return sooner than I want, and I’ll be one of the first to complain. For now, I’ll take the cold.
I wandered into Whole Foods and, as always, drifted straight to the produce section. That’s my unthinking routine: start with vegetables and finish with cheese. It simplifies shopping—no decisions required, just habit.
I tossed my usual vegetables into the cart—leeks, fennel bulbs, carrots, celeriac and parsnip for a vegetable broth and the hachis parmentier I planned to make; mâche and arugula with fresh herbs; and a big paper bag of McIntosh apples for freshly squeezed morning juice. As I reached for kiwis, a bright splash of red caught my eye from the refrigerated berry display. I blinked; my cheeks warmed with excitement. Could it be?
They had red currants.
De belles groseilles rouges juteuses.
A few boxes away, long ruby stalks were piled together—rhubarb, too.
A grin spread across my face, though for a moment I tried to be reasonable.
Non Béa, tu ne peux pas acheter des groseilles en hiver (Béa, you shouldn’t buy red currants in winter). And rhubarb neither.
But why not? Would it be a crime to buy a box of bright summer fruit in the middle of winter? My head began filling with ideas for colorful desserts. With rhubarb added, it would be heaven.
Still, I heard a voice telling me not to buy out-of-season fruit. I moved on, determined to finish shopping, but the image kept returning and pushed other items out of my mind. In the end, I decided a little indulgence wouldn’t hurt—those currants and rhubarb would brighten the kitchen and lift P.’s spirits that evening.
So I went back. Luckily, there were plenty left. I hesitated between two boxes, then chose one. I could always return for more.
At home a few hours later, I set to work. I felt inspired.
The first dessert I made was a red berry and rhubarb crumble, which I’ll describe another time.
The second was red currant and almond teacakes—perfect to pack for a hike or a picnic at the beach.
These little cakes use white rice and almond flours, and only egg whites instead of whole eggs—an ideal way to use leftover egg whites. They’re scented with lemongrass and vanilla, and poppy seeds add a pleasant crunch. I pulse the lemongrass in my coffee grinder to get it very fine; a small nut grinder works equally well. The batter is quick to make and yields light, tender cakes—one of my reliable successes.
Did I feel guilty about buying summer fruit in winter?
Alors là, mais pas du tout! (Not at all!)
Instead I closed my eyes and imagined lying beneath a cherry tree after a picnic, smelling freshly cut grass and feeling a cool sea breeze. I can’t wait for spring picnics again—my kitchen and I are ready whenever spring decides to arrive.
You need:
- 1 lemongrass stick, chopped finely (I used a coffee grinder)
- 1/2 vanilla bean, split open and seeds scraped out
- 5 Tbsp butter
- 1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar, sifted
- 1/2 cup almond flour, sifted
- 1/4 cup white rice flour*
- 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
- Pinch of salt
- 2 egg whites, lightly beaten with a fork until foamy
- 1/2 tablespoon poppy seeds
- 1/3 cup red currants
*You can substitute white rice flour with all-purpose flour
Steps:
- Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter four muffin molds and set aside.
- Melt the butter and let it cool slightly.
- In a bowl, combine white rice flour, almond flour, confectioner’s sugar, baking powder and a pinch of salt.
- Add vanilla seeds and the finely chopped lemongrass to the dry mix.
- Make a well in the center and pour in the beaten egg whites; mix until combined.
- Slowly add the melted butter while stirring to incorporate it evenly.
- Gently fold in the red currants and poppy seeds, then divide the batter among the four molds.
- Bake for about 30 minutes, until lightly golden and a toothpick comes out clean.
- Remove from the oven and let cool a few minutes before unmolding onto a wire rack.
Ingrédients :
- 1 bâton de citronnelle, haché finement (j’utilise un moulin à café)
- 1/2 gousse de vanille, fendue et grattée
- 65 g de beurre
- 60 g de sucre glace, tamisé
- 60 g de poudre d’amandes, tamisée
- 50 g de farine de riz blanche*
- 1/4 càc de poudre à lever
- Pincée de sel
- 2 blancs d’œuf, légèrement battus à la fourchette pour être mousseux
- 1/2 càs de graines de pavot
- 40 g de groseilles rouges
*Vous pouvez substituer cette farine par de la farine T45.
Étapes :
- Préchauffez le four à 180°C et beurrez 4 petits moules à muffin ou à bord cannelé.
- Faites fondre le beurre et laissez-le tiédir.
- Dans une jatte, mélangez la farine de riz, la poudre d’amandes, le sucre glace, le sel et la poudre à lever.
- Ajoutez les graines de vanille et la citronnelle finement hachée.
- Faites un puits, incorporez les blancs d’œuf et mélangez jusqu’à homogénéité.
- Ajoutez le beurre fondu en mélangeant bien pour obtenir une pâte lisse.
- Incorporez ensuite les graines de pavot et les groseilles, puis répartissez la pâte dans les moules.
- Enfournez pour environ 30 minutes, jusqu’à légère coloration.
- Sortez du four et laissez tiédir avant de démouler sur une grille.